A Winter's Tale: The Matysiks Visit Japan, Part 5--New Year's Day

Happy 2007! Our new year began by walking around the grounds of the very famous and exquisite Himeji-jo. One of the oldest and completely original castles of Japan, Himeji-jo stands regally above the town below. Nestled high on an unmovable bed of boulders, the castle's main keep is nothing less than breathtaking. The pitched roof, the small slitted windows, the blinding white paint--all situate Himeji-jo in a dark, war-plagued, samurai-ridden past. Though, walking through the grounds, I felt distinctly at ease, as though the castle itself has a welcoming and safe presence. We entered one of the buildings on the grounds, stepping into wooden rooms where women were housed and, slinking along the smooth floorboards, we felt transported to another era. Outside, beyond the thick mud walls, a group of men were playing on Japanese flutes and the beautiful, simple music floated into the sunlit rooms. The castle grounds, while strewn with many visitors, were so serene and it was so relaxing just to be ambling among the trees and gardens.

Eventually, we found the exact place where, six years ago, Matt had taken a stunning picture of the castle and, having found the same spot, we snapped another photo with all of us in front of the castle. Then, having only a few minutes left to peruse the grounds, we made it up to the main keep, where tiny doors led into secret holdings and stone steps were worn down from years of use and exposure. Paying our respects to this historical site, we said goodbye and began our walk towards Himeji station. There, we boarded another shinkansen (bullet train) and, in less than 30 minutes, found ourselves in Kobe.

Waiting in the Shin-Kobe station, our respective head colds really started to get the best of us. I remember sitting there, thinking how I could try to make my runny nose, sore throat, and persistent headache go away (or seem less disabling than it really was) before the Oues came to pick us up. But no sooner had I began to think about this, then I heard Greg say that Hiroshi was here! So, mustering up the little strength we had in our exhausted and ill-stricken bodies, we went to greet Hiroshi and Akinori (the first time for Greg, Michelle and Allison; the second for me). Walking out of the station, I asked Hiroshi, "Hiroshi-san, o genki desu ka?" And right away, he laughed in his cute little chuckle and told me that my Japanese had greatly improved since the last time I was here. I smiled, shook my hand in front of my face (an indication of saying "no" in Japan) and told him that it was still very poor. So, after introductions and a few words, Matt and Allison hopped into the car with Akinori and I accompanied Greg and Michelle in Hiroshi's car. We talked about our trip and all that we had seen and eaten since Christmas Eve. It was a relaxing car ride back to Suma, the part of Kobe where the Oues reside.

Twisting, turning and creeping up the steep hills of the neighborhood, I started to remember certain landmarks from when I was visiting back in October. We pulled up to the beautiful white house with the Oue's kanji written on a plaque by their mail box. We exited the car and entered the beautiful foyer. Chieko came out to greet us, a huge smile on her face which I distinctly remembered from our first meeting. Masahito was sitting in the kitchen and when we entered for lunch, we found the table covered with decorative bento boxes full of delicious New Year foods. Chieko and Seiko had made all the food the day earlier--and it was quite a feast! We had mochi, fish, vegetables, beans, and beer. Lunch lasted a good hour or so. When it was over, we went into the living room, where we all looked at pictures around the coffee table and Chieko served us tea and coffee. I felt right at home again with this wonderful family and felt so happy that Greg, Michelle and Allison were finally able to meet them after all these years.

After a few minutes, we all piled into the cars and headed down to a small shrine to pay our respects to the New Year. There were people lining the roads and small stands set up to sell takoyaki, anko fish, and other little sweets. We climbed the stone steps up to the shrine and then, getting our our 5 yen pieces, we approached the opening, where hoards of other people were tossing coins into the bin, then clapping twice, bowing, then clapping once again. So, following suit, we tossed our coins, clapped and bowed. Then, we took a look around the shrine. We saw people tying their bad fortunes onto pine trees around the shrine. Then, walking down the steps again, we headed back to the cars, but since there were so many of us, we had to take two trips, so Matt and I waited at the 7/11 for Chieko to come get us. While we waited we ate a kit-kat bar and commented on how many unwelcoming stares we had received on our way to and from the shrine. It was a really interesting experience. We are used to being stared at most places we go, but this was definitely a different kind of stare--it was very unfriendly and almost hateful. We were both really surprised.

Once Chieko picked us up and we returned to the home, we just relaxed in the living room, watching New Years programs on Hiroshi's huge TV. Then, as dusk fell and the sky turned a midnight blue color, we took a drive down to Rainbow Bridge, where we took some pictures and admired the view of the bay at night. Then, upon returning back to the house, we had another amazing meal (Chieko is a magnificent cook) and soon, feeling the effects of the long day and the extensive traveling we had been doing for the past week, we took our baths and got ready for bed. Greg and Michelle would be staying with the Oues, but Matt, Allison and I were to be guests at the neighbor's house. She was a kind, old widow who had a whole huge house to herself. At first, before I met her, I was a little reluctant to stay at her house, but once we entered and saw this spry, spunky (and extremely genki) old lady, we immediately felt right at home. She nestled us under her kotatsu in front of her TV, and we looked at some of her pictures from a trip she and Seiko took to Thailand only a few months ago. Then, feeling fatigued, we shuffled into the tatami room and, climbing under the bedding, soon fell into a deep and much-needed sleep. And so ended our first day of the new year--a wonderful day full of history, food, and reuniting with friends.