Monday, February 19, 2007

A Winter's Tale: The Matysiks Visit Japan, Part 6--Kyoto Day Trip


Monday, January 2nd--a blustery, cold, rainy winter day. We set out at the crack of dawn to embark on our day trip with Hiroshi and Chieko to Kyoto. Little did we know that we would soon be transported into a world of middle-aged, food-loving Japanese people who clearly had no real interest in all the hidden wonders scattered among Japan's ancient capital.


We no sooner left the tour bus (after listening to the guide go on and on in Japanese for almost two painstaking hours) then we were rushed over to our first shrine. "You only have 30 minutes to look around and take pictures. Then be back on the bus," was the extent of what our guide murmured to us as we quickened our pace to catch a glimpse of the shrine.

Upon entering the grounds, the rain tapping persistently on the exposed tops of our umbrellas, we beheld the brightly-painted orange buildings of this particular shrine. We approached the main building, coins in hand, and repeating the ritual we had learned the previous day, we paid our respects to the god of the shrine and then had a muddy, wet look around. Everything was decked out for the New Year's holiday and with scads of people roaming around, laughing and clasping wet hands with wet hands, we became part of the festivities surrounding us.

Rushing back to the bus, we soon found ourselves creeping and winding around small cobblestone streets, towards a hotel on a hill. Moving up to the second floor, we entered a small tatami room with a banquet table full of many more traditional New Year's foods. After a hearty meal, we consulted our maps and, utilizing the two hours we had to walk around the old streets, we began the best part of our day.

Walking down the sloping streets of the Higashiyama area, we saw the head of a giant deity rising above the barren trees. Climbing steep stone steps, we made it to the shrine dedicated to an unknown soldier. Paying the small entrance fee, and, with incense in hand, we approached the large statue. Her peaceful gaze and stance cast a tranquil atmosphere over the grounds. It was so quiet and peaceful, with rain drops dancing on the surface of the small pool in the center of the complex--I felt completely at ease in this moment in time.

Placing our incense sticks into the burner and looking around the grounds, we were soon on our way down the hill once again, stopping to take pictures of the little shops and shrines along the way. We happened upon not only shrines and temples, but little stands selling typical festival foods. So, in the midst of all this ancient history, Matt stopped and had a tasty snack of takoyaki (fried octopus in breading).

As our next departure time was quickly approaching, we began our ascent of the steep roads and soon, after a few stops, made it back to the tour bus. Stopping inside the hotel for a quick bathroom break, we did a little window shopping in the gift shop and then were on our way again. The bus, after meandering through Kyoto's narrow streets, stopped across from an ancient, magnificent looking temple complex. Anxiously awaiting to go and see what was inside, I quickly got off the bus--only to find that we were all being herded into a radish shop, for wine and radish tasting. So, as we ate the sour veggies and drank the too-sweet wine, we looked out of the glass windows towards the historical buildings on the other side of the street. Then, after our 10 minute stop, we entered the bus again and drove away. I never did get to see what was inside the complex--maybe I never will.

We drove on for what seemed like hours and finally stopped at a parking lot. We boarded another bus bound for another shrine. This shrine, apparently, was extremely popular, and so, following the crowds towards what we could only assume was the gate to the shrine, we soon found ourselves scrunched in a mob of "pilgrims." It was almost surreal how many people were headed in the same direction, and we couldn't help but step on a few peoples' feet as we snaked through the winding streets to the mouth of the shrine.

The shrine itself was nothing particularly special to look at, but the mere fact that so many people found it necessary to make the trip to its very gates was moving. As I was shoved to and fro from all the people moving towards the shrine entrance, I almost felt a sense of calm--like the eye of a storm. Taking it all in (as quickly as I could since we had yet another deadline to return to the bus), we then turned on our heels and headed back, through the crowds of people, back to the tour bus and, very soon enough, were on our way back to Kobe and to our warm beds.

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