A Winter's Tale: The Matysiks Visit Japan, Part 2--Yamanashi-ken

Wednesday, December 27th: Morning (day 3)
I awoke to the bright sunshine illuminating the paper windows in the tatami room where the five of us had just spent a peaceful night. The previous night's rain had cleared and left in its wake clear skies, magnificent mountain views, and Fuji-san, outlined by the morning mist. Matt and I decided that today would be the best day to drive down to Motosuko to get pictures of Fuji, so after a big breakfast of French toast, I sent Matt, Michelle, Greg and Allison off in our tiny Opti Daihatsu to witness on of Japan's natural marvels. As for me, I decided to stay behind and get some laundry done.

Mid-morning:
After a beautiful, scenic drive through the Minami-Alps--passing Matt's school in Kyonan along the way--the little party in the tiny Daihatsu made it to Motosuko. Snapping numerous pictures of Fuji-san, they soon crammed back into the car and headed back to Ryuo.

Noon:
By the time Matt, Michelle, Greg, and Allison returned from their Fuji-excursion, it was lunchtime. Matt and I decided to take them to one of our favorite "fast food" restaurants, Kaiten-zushi. It is a poor excuse for sushi, compared to the fresh stuff we ate in Tokyo, but it's cheap, fast, and pretty tasty. So, as the conveyor belt swished plates upon plates of different types of sushi by us, we had a nice, relaxing lunch, discussing all the exciting things we had already experienced in our four days together.

Mid-afternoon:
After dropping Matt and Greg off at the house--they were both pooped out and needed a bit of a rest--Michelle, Allison, and I took the train into Kofu, where we walked down Heiwa Dori (so exciting...), had a much needed Starbuck's break, and then did some shopping at Okajima's Department store. It was nice to just be out with Michelle and Al, and by the time we got home, we were ready for some dinner and another relaxing night at home.

Evening:
For dinner, we drove into Kushigata (past Shirane High School) and entered our favorite　おこのみやき （okonomiyaki） restaurant, Nishiki. Once seated at our tiny table, we started to explain how you make okonomiyaki: you get a cup with a raw egg, veggies, and cheese (sometimes you can get meat as well); mix it up well until it looks a little like lumpy pancake batter; add the mochi (a type of rice cake); pour the concoction onto the heated griddle in the center of the table; spread evenly with a spoon; allow to cook until golden brown on the bottom; carefully take two spatulas and flip the pseudo-pancake over; while allowing the other side to cook and brown, baste the okonomiyaki with a bbq-esque sauce and sprinkle nori (seaweek) flakes on top; cut into "pizza" slices; carefully pick up a slice with the chopsticks; dip in mayo; enjoy its deliciousness! Needless to say, we were stuffed by the time we left the friendly little establishment.

Late night:
Since we were already in Kushigata, Matt and I decided to take the Matysiks to Trial Supercenter (basically a depressing Japanese "Wal-Mart"). After laughing hysterically at all the "Engrish" t-shirts, we headed downstairs to load up on all kinds of tasty (and quite unhealthy) snacks. We bought pocky, koala munchies (I loved these things when I was a kid!), chocolate and some chips. Then, with our bags full of treats, we drove back to Ryuo, where, filling our bellies with even more food, we talked and laughed and then fell asleep.



Thursday, December 28th: Day Trip to Nagano-ken to see Matsumoto-jo
Cozy underneath the mofu blanket and comforter, I did not want to get out of bed, but after mustering up the courage to brave the cold apartment, I remembered that today we would be taking a road trip to Matsumoto castle, one of my most favorite places in Japan. After breakfast, showers, and the like, we all piled into the car and started our hour and a half journey to Matsumoto--on the at times scary but very scenic Chuo Expressway. The blustery, winter sky held promises of snow showers and I was happy when we made it to Matsumoto without any unexpected blizzards. Approaching the castle grounds, we saw Matsumoto-jo in all her majesty and, floating effortless on the moat's choppy surface were two beautiful, cotton-white swans. We stood, gazing at their beauty, and then made our way across the berry-red bridge into the castle compound.


Taking off our shoes and placing them in small plastic bags, we meandered through the ancient castle, stopping at each window to catch a glimpse of the city and surrounding mountains and to imagine what it must have been like, looking out of these same windows during the era of the samurai. After ascending the six-stories and then descending once again, we wandered the grounds, taking way too many pictures (as usual) and enjoying a brief retreat from the cold, nipping wind in the little gift shop.

With bellies rumbling with hunger pangs, we trooped on over to a tiny little soba shop, where we had an amazing lunch--complete with both cold and hot soba noodles, tempura (天ぷら), tea, and pickled veggies. Feeling full, tired and very wind-blown, we decided to head back to the car and to begin our ride home. Little did I know that I would be soon be driving through a snowy mess, in the mountains, with balding tires, resulting in sore, white knuckles afterwards.

Once the snowy weather was behind us, we had a fabulous drive back into Yamanashi, where the eight snow-covered peaks of Yatsugatake-san glimmered in the mid-afternoon sunshine. Fuji-san could be seen as we raced down the freeway and the concrete forest of Shirane, Ryuo, and Kofu was sparkling in the warm sunshine. Back at home, we took a little rest, then went out for dinner at Gratzie Gardens (our favorite "Italian pizza" joint). Content with our day of travel and sightseeing, we relaxed again at home, listened to Matt's ipod, and drifted off into a fantasy-land sleep.


Friday, December 29th: Last day in Yamanashi
It started with a lazy morning. I got up and had some tea with Greg and Michelle. Soon Matt and then Allison awoke and we had a leisurely breakfast. After cleaning up the tatami room (putting the futons, blankets, sheets and pillows back into the closet), we packed for what would soon become our week and a half "tour" of the Kansai region. Before saying goodbye to Yamanashi, though, I drove Michelle over to Shirane High School, where she took some pictures and then we got a few snacks at the conbini for lunch. Making sure we were all packed and leaving the tap dripping ever so slightly (just to make sure the pipes wouldn't freeze), we took one last picture in our entry way and then, locking the door behind us, set off towards Ryuo-eki, and the second part of our winter's tale.

A Winter's Tale: The Matysiks Visit Japan, Part 1--Tokyo

Christmas Eve 2006--We left our home in Ryuo, taking a coach bus three and a half hours east, and arrived at Narita airport, excited for the arrival of Matt's family that evening. Waiting in the airport lobby, watching the big "score board" of arriving flights, noticing that the Northwest passengers were supposedly going through customs at the moment, our hearts were racing in excited anticipation of seeing familiar faces after five months of living 6,000 miles away from our home. Watching the exits, I spotted a familiar blond head and yellow coat and, quickly gathering our backpacks and jackets, Matt and I, dodging other expectant family and friends, ran over to greet Greg, Michelle and Allison with big hugs and huge grins! Finally, our long-awaited reunion with family and friends had started!

The Matysiks traveled around Japan with us for almost two weeks, and in that time, we saw many sights, ate all kinds of foods, and shared our admiration and disappointments of Japan with each other. The following account is how it all began:

Travel itinerary: Day 1--Tokyo

I awoke at 6am on Christmas morning and, emerging from my tiny room at the New Koyo Hotel, I was surprised to see Michelle already up, dressed, and brushing her teeth. We quickly assembled our 5-person group and, stepping into the bright, sunlit morning, we began our day's excursions around Tokyo. Taking the subway to Ginza, we walked toward the Tsukiji Fish Market, for a look at the morning's freshest catch. The market was teeming with people, buying, gazing, and snaking through the narrow walkways between each "booth." Narrowly escaping the fishermen's motorized carts and picking our way around pools of fish blood, we made it through the bustling market and into the fresh, less fishy-smelling air. Finding a small street to walk down, we happened upon a small sushi shop and entered. We sat at the little bar, ordered our meals and awaited the glorious moment when the fresh fillets would be placed on our leafy plates, ready for our ravenous stomachs. This was actually my and Matt's first time eating "fresh" sushi in Japan--and it was no less than amazing! Topped off with miso soup and bottomless green tea, we had a fantastic first meal in Tokyo.

Leaving the sushi shop, we ventured over to Kabuki-za, where we got tickets for one act and were awed by this traditional Japanese art form. Kabuki theater was nothing like I had imagined--the costumes were stunning, the music and singing gripping, the dancing magical. I felt I had a bird's eye view into a time long ago--an older, more mystical Japan--and while this is certainly the point of theater in many respects, it was really something special to experience. Exiting the theater at 12:15pm, we decided to take another train to Asakusa, to see the famous Senso-ji (temple).


Asakusa is a really unique part of Tokyo and the feeling of traditional and modern is distinctly present when walking its streets. Before reaching the temple, we encountered a large gate, with a huge paper lantern hanging from the beams. On the other side of the gate were masses of people emerging and disappearing into the tiny shops lining the canopied street. We poked our heads in and out of specialty shops, buying small trinkets to remind us of our trip here, and then followed the crowd toward the temple grounds. Senso-ji, situated amongst a world of concrete and neon lights, emits a kind of power and serenity over the entire grounds. Cleansing ourselves at the water pool and at the large incense pot, we entered the temple to gaze in amazement at its intricate designs and detailed drawings. Our trip to the temple ended with a delicious soba lunch at a nearby shop, where Allison and I partook of some soft-serve ice cream afterwards and then, at least I, regretted it once we stepped into the brisk, December air.

Soon after we found ourselves in Shinjuku, on the 45th floor of the Tokyo Municipal Government building, gazing at the "endless" city below. The sun was just setting and as the lights began to flicker on in various skyscrapers and districts of Tokyo, we found ourselves slowly wearing down from a long day of sightseeing. Taking a small break at the top of the building, we concluded that the night could not end and, after regaining a bit of strength, we forged ahead with our "night on the town."

Deciding to skip a normal dinner, we wandered the streets of Harajuku looking for a coffee shop to rest in. Along the way, Matt and I stopped for a double chocolate crepe, which almost did me in! Then, finding the familiar and beckoning circular Starbucks sign, we squeezed into a small table and had our caffeine fix for the evening. Sitting around the small table, people watching out of the thinly-paned windows, Matt told us that he wanted to go to Shinjuku to find a special area called the Golden Gai. We agreed that we could go for a little while longer and, with that, we left and walked back to the station, where we boarded the Yamanote Line train to Shinjuku station.

The lights of Shinjuku brighten up the sky like the mid-day sun, and with all the flashing colors, imposing store music, and hoards of people, we soon found ourselves with a good second-wind. We walked down the main street, past Kabukicho (red-light district) and then made an unexpected left turn down a quiet, dimly lit, cobblestone pedestrian pathway. I was a little nervous, walking down such a "shaddy" looking street, but soon, and to my great surprise, we found ourselves in a new world, full of tiny streets with bar after bar after tiny, hole-in-the-wall bar. Meandering around, we decided to test one of them out and, finding a place called "The 60s bar," we stepped inside, filling up over half of the capacity on our own. The woman who owned the bar was very nice and even put some Andy Williams Christmas music on for us. We enjoyed Nihon-shu (sake) in wooden boxes and had lively conversation with some other gentlemen who entered after us. After a few more drinks, we decided to call it a night and, after a short walk and a few train rides, we made it back to our little hotel and fell fast asleep.

Travel itinerary: Day 2--Tokyo and Ryuo

I awoke on December 26th to rain smattering against my window. Knowing that we would be outside for the good part of the morning in the foul weather, I grabbed my small, travel umbrella and headed down to the lobby. The minute I stepped outside and heard the pattering of raindrops on the canopy over my head, I knew our hours spent outside would be close to miserable. We went down to the 7/11 for a quick breakfast, shaking as we ate outside in the dampness, and then we went to Ueno, to walk around the park and to visit the National Treasury Museum. Both the walk and the museum were "below-average," but we continued and tried to make the best of our current situation. We found a little place to eat some lunch--various kinds of udon bowls--and then we decided to retrieve our luggage from the hotel and to get to Shinjuku station, where we would take the Kaiji Limited Express back to Kofu.

Well, by the time we dragged all the luggage through large puddles of standing water and transfered a few trains, we were ready for the hour and a half train ride back to Yamanashi-ken. We were all tired and cranky and the weather hampered our scenic view. My jeans had just almost dried out when we reached Ryuo, when we had to brave the elements once again to make it to our tiny, freezer-like apartment. Entering the cold kitchen, I felt awful for having dragged the Matysiks through this crappy weather only to enter an unheated residence. But, once we got our kerosene heater working and sat around the kotatsu drinking jasmine tea, things started to get better.

Matt and I took Michelle, Greg and Allison to our favorite Indian restaurant, Suriya, for dinner and then, with our bellies full of delicious curry and nan, we drove to the Yamanami onsen to really warm up. Inside, I explained to Michelle and Allison what the proper way to "experience onsen" was and then we had a nice, relaxing hour in the baths. Feeling warm and tired afterwards, we came home, talked a little bit and then, laying out the futons, blankets and comforters in our 6 tatami mat room, we called it a night and prepared for our next day in Yamanashi.

And this concludes the first two days of our winter vacation with the Matysiks. After these 2 days, we did a few things around the Yamanashi-area (which will be highlighted in the next post) and then began our intense 14 days of travel all over Japan. But, for now, we were just sleeping on the night of the 26th, happy to be out of the elements and dreaming about all the exciting adventures to come.